• Chasing Lost History at Malazgirt

    “The bus leaves from here to Malazgirt at 3:00, and returns tomorrow at 1:30. Ok?” he said in Turkish. He was the ticket man at the tiny rural bus station in the tiny rural town of Ahlat, on the north […]

  • The Birth of My Travel Life

    My first solo trip abroad occurred the summer after my first year of college, when I was 19. I had been studying the Turkish language as part of my Near Eastern history degree program, and had won a grant to […]


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